Recipes often call for zest of unwaxed lemons. Why are so many lemons waxed, what kind of wax is used and what is the best way to remove the wax without harming the zest?
• Citrus fruits have a robust natural waxy covering that protects them from drying out and from some kinds of rot. That kind of wax, in the amount found on fruit, presents no problems to the home cook.
The recipes that call for unwaxed lemons want to avoid the artificial wax used to coat some fruit. This is added for various reasons. For a start, industrial fruit production often depends on seasonal storage and international distribution of produce, which means it is at risk of deterioration, rotting and damage. Sometimes, fruit needs washing and other handling so vigorous that it damages the natural wax coating, spoiling the fruit’s appearance or permitting drying or rot. It might also be that the fruit just isn’t naturally glossy enough, so the handlers apply an extra coat to attract customers.
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Sometimes the new coating is vegetable wax from other sources, and is much like the original wax, so it need not trouble the cook. But commonly it is a petroleum wax much like that used in candles, and applied in a thicker coat than the fruit naturally produces, to make it look extra glossy. Though harmless, petroleum wax won’t break down in cooking and might affect some recipes, creating froths and making smooth items look unattractive. But if you are not fussy, any ill effects should be minor.
Jon Richfield, Somerset West, South Africa
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