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Are we deluding ourselves when we shop for eco-friendly stuff?

A highly critical new report questions the worth of the sustainability logos that appear on many products. Are they still a force for good?
Smiling shopper looks at garment label
Some labels should be taken with a pinch of salt
Hero Images Inc/Alamy Stock Photo

When picking goods off supermarket shelves or rummaging the racks in clothing stores, do you check for a logo showing that the product was not made at the expense of the environment? And if so, do you believe it?

In an imperfect world – and one in which we also check the price tag – we know there are shades of greenness. But most of us think green is good: if not perfect, then at least a cut above the rest. And although we know that our purchase won’t save the world, we hope it will help lift industry standards.

We may be deluding ourselves, according to a stern new analysis by the Changing Markets Foundation in Utrecht, the Netherlands, which suggests that that sustainability certificates are little more than corporate greenwash. Its report, “”, says the benchmarks are often set far too low, and that the certifiers are too intertwined with those they police.

The analysis argues that rather than catalysing change, certification is “standing in the way” of progress on sustainability. Green labels encourage us to consume by salving our consciences. And by giving kudos in questionable circumstances, they actively undermine truly green-minded products. Ouch.

Debate about the value of green labels has raged since they first appeared over a quarter of a century ago. Puritans line up against pragmatists: is it glass half full or half empty? I have wavered. But if the charge is now that some labels may do more harm than good, then it is time to take a closer look.

The report focuses on certification schemes for textiles, fisheries and the palm-oil industry. There are many more schemes for other products, all designed to allow shoppers to determine eco credentials at a glance.

For fisheries, the report raises issues including the claim that schemes can “place too much emphasis on increasing the number of fisheries participating and the volume of seafood caught, rather than on the quality of participation or outcomes”. For textiles, it says certification schemes can give an “unjustified green glow” by failing to “forbid the use of hazardous pesticides, artificial fertilisers or GM cotton”. And for palm oil, its criticisms include manufacturers putting sustainable logos on products without knowing whether their suppliers are still burning rainforests.

So, has the report nailed a global green failing? Or is it throwing the baby out with the bathwater? Some ethical consumers will never be satisfied with anything less than perfect, of course. That’s fine. We need them to raise ambition. But the acid test is not the purity of the logos. It is whether they can change how industries operate.

And here, the report offers some hope. Despite all its chastisement, it concedes, for instance, that fisheries certification schemes “can and do have some positive impacts”. Their existence has “made industry and government regulators more proactive about sustainability concerns”.

Equally, nobody would say oil-palm growers have altogether stopped chopping down trees, but the in the past couple of decades. Something must be going right. I see that as a glass half full.

None of this lets consumers off the hook. Green labels do nothing to discourage us from buying more stuff, which arguably is what is needed most of all in a truly sustainable world. But it is surely perverse to see them as part of the problem. They may be imperfect and deserving of robust scrutiny, but on balance, the labels are worth keeping.

Topics: Environment