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Gluten-free water: surely that’s not a real thing is it?

Consumer fad or bad joke? What should we make of the website promoting gluten-free bottled water to the health-conscious, asksAnthony Warner

Free from common sense
Free from common sense
Peter Starman/Getty

A friend on Twitter recently shared a linkand declaredthat “civilisation is over”. It appeared that she might be correct: the site wasmarketing with the strapline, “because you can never be too sure”.

The link had been shared with a number of commentators, and for a large part of that day we all indignantly retweeted our outrage at this absurd fad. (For anyone still wondering – no, water doesn’t contain gluten unless you cook pasta in it.)

I have no problem with brands marketing and selling gluten-free products. For those afflicted with coeliac disease, consuming even tiny amounts of gluten can have unpleasant health consequences. For them it is important that clear, unambiguous information about gluten – a mix of proteins found in some common grains – is available.

What does spark my ire, and that of the many people who commented on the water story, is the tendency of brands to imbue free-from products with a general halo of health and well-being, wrongly implying that the free-from option is somehow more healthy for everyone.

Even worse is when brands selling products that have no reason to contain gluten market themselves under a free-from banner in order to drive sales. That’s just cynical and exploitative. Gluten-free water is perhaps the worst example of this disingenuous trend.

But all was not quite what it seemed. Later that day, I returned to the website. As I read the information pages I became even more incredulous. The site is a festival of nutritional woo about lifestyle choices and freedom from toxic additives. However, when someone sent me a link to the , I started to think something might be afoot. I decided to get in touch with this brand.

Gluten-free water turns out to be a hoax. Which is a relief of sorts. It has been sparking flashes of indignant outrage and – incredibly – also attracting inquiries from around the world about how to buy the product since 2014. It has reached a number of news websites and Twitter feeds. Now, its creator, Canadian blogger Aaron Binder, is keen to draw a line under it.

“I can’t believe it fooled so many,” he says. “It was really set up to explore how easy it is to manipulate people with headlines. This is especially true in food and health culture. Superfoods, toxins – they are a multi-billion industry based on vague claims.”

I spend much of my time trying to expose pseudoscience in food and often criticise people for accepting simple narratives without checking the facts. Unfortunately, as the hoax shows, we all have a tendency to believe without thinking, especially when the simple story fits our view of the world. I had spent so long decrying wave upon wave of food fad pseudoscience, that I nearly didn’t stop to question the existence of gluten-free water.

Aaron has a number of hoaxes on the go, none of which he would reveal details of. I, for one, am glad– it might just keep us on our toes. Next time I am looking to retweet some clickbait headline, it might just pay to stop and think for a moment.

Anthony Warnerworks as a food industry development chef by day, blogs about pseudoscience asby night and tweets at @One_Angry_Chef

Topics: Food and drink