Literally, this French word means 鈥渟oil鈥�. But for wine-makers, terroir is much more slippery. So slippery, in fact, that when oenologists, viticulturists and other interested parties got together to decide on a definition at a conference at the University of California, Davis, last year, they failed.
Conventionally, terroir is a geographical term. It associates the character of a wine with the particular soil and often also with the microclimate in which the grapes were grown. Location is everything.
So-called 鈥淥ld World鈥� wine-producers in Europe have clung to the idea that when it comes to Pinot noir grapes, for example, the Burgundy region is peculiarly blessed with the kind of soil and climate that bring out the best in the fruit. The belief has led some Pinot noir growers in the New World 鈥� in New Zealand and California, for example 鈥� to search for soils and microclimates that match those of Burgundy.
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This idea is misguided, say some wine-makers and researchers. They believe that other factors can also determine a wine鈥檚 character and that terroir should have a broader definition to include them. Producing good Pinot noir wines in locations that differ substantially from Burgundy is then just a question of managing these other factors well. Some say the quality of Pinot noir in New Zealand shows this has already been achieved.
鈥淭he definition of a wine鈥檚 terroir should not be restricted to soil and climate鈥�
Certainly, there is a growing body of evidence to challenge the conventional wisdom relating to terroir. It has long been said, for instance, that the mineral constituents of a particular soil influence a wine鈥檚 characteristics. However, research into why the Marlborough region of New Zealand produces such spectacular Sauvignon blancs has pretty much ruled out soil make-up. Instead, researchers think the region鈥檚 climate is probably responsible.
Then there is the notion that cooler climates make for the best aromatic wines. That is clearly not the case in the Clare Valley in South Australia, which produces internationally acclaimed aromatic Rieslings though temperatures soar in summer. There must be something in the particular combination of fruit, cultivation methods, weather and soil, as well as the way in which the wine is made, that is responsible for its character. All of these factors are part of the terroir, say advocates of a broader definition.
No wonder delegates in California failed to reach a consensus, with some thinking it better not even to try. Nevertheless many wine-producers in Europe, and increasingly in the New World, are sticking to a narrow definition, sometimes equating terroir not only to a geographical region but even to a particular valley. The reason? It boosts their sales.
